moneypassion

Monday, May 26, 2008

CALCULATED RISK

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Housing: Why was Kudlow so wrong?

by CalculatedRisk

Note: It is not my intention to embarrass Mr. Kudlow, rather to simply show why his analysis was wrong (typical of many back in 2005) - and why the "housing bears" were correct.

Back in June 2005, Larry Kudlow wrote: The Housing Bears Are Wrong Again

"If [the housing bears] had put a little elbow grease into their analysis, they would have learned that new-housing starts for private homes and apartments haven’t changed much during the past three and a half decades.

Although year-to-date housing starts have kicked up to 2 million, average new construction since the early 1970s has hovered around 1.5 million to 1.75 million new starts per year. During the same period, the number of American households has increased by 48 million, or 75 percent, according to the U.S. Census Bureau. It is plain to see that the family demand for homes has far outstripped the supply of newly built residences. So it should not be shocking that home prices have tended to rise on a steady basis, averaging 6.5 percent price gains over the last 35 years."
*******************

Housing Starts Click on graph for larger image.

This graph shows housing starts from 1970 to the present. Kudlow's claim that housing starts "haven’t changed much" and "hovered around 1.5 million to 1.75 million per year" was not quite accurate. Housing starts did average 1.59 million per year from 1970 through 2005, but there was a wide variation in starts.

Then Kudlow goes on to state:
"During the same period, the number of American households has increased by 48 million, or 75 percent, according to the U.S. Census Bureau. It is plain to see that the family demand for homes has far outstripped the supply of newly built residences."
According to the Census Bureau's Housing and Homeownership data, the number of occupied housing units increased from 63.6 million in 1970 to 108.2 million in 2005, or about 44.6 million.

Looking at the same Census data, we can see that total housing units increased from 69.8 million in 1970, to 123.9 million in 2005, or about 54.1 million during that same period. We can obtain a similar number by adding the total starts from 1970 through 2005, about 57 million starts.

Some of these housing units are second homes, but why is it "plain to see" that demand for homes had "outstripped" supply? There were significantly more housing units built (57 million starts) during this period than new households formed (44.6 million) in the U.S.!

Perhaps Kudlow, when looking at those peaks of housing starts in the '70s and early '80s, was fooled into thinking that the recent peak in activity wasn't extraordinary, especially since the U.S. population is growing. This was an inaccurate view.

PersonThe second graph shows the trend of people per household (and people per total housing units) in the United States since 1950. Before the period shown on this graph there was a long steady down trend in the number of people per household.

Note: the dashed lines indicates estimates based on the decennial Census for 1950 and 1960.

Starting in the late '60s there was a rapid decrease in the number of persons per household until about the late '80. This was primarily due to the "baby boom" generation forming new households en masse.

It was during this period - of rapid decline in persons per household - that the peaks in housing starts occurred. Many of those starts, especially in the '70s, were for apartments. Even if there had been no increase in the U.S. population, the U.S. would have needed approximately 27% more housing units at the end of this period just to accommodate the change in demographics (persons per household).

Now look at the period since 1988, the persons per household has remained flat. The increase in 2002 was due to revisions, and isn't an actual shift in demographics.

Here is a simple formula for housing starts (assuming no excess inventory):

Housing Starts = f(population growth) + f(change in household size) + demolitions.

f(change in household size) was an important component of housing demand in the '70s and early '80s. In recent years, f(change in household size) = zero.

So, unless Kudlow is arguing for a significant further reduction in housing size, he shouldn't have been comparing starts in recent years to starts in the '70s and '80s.

And finally, Kudlow should have been looking at the rampant speculation in 2005, both with flippers and homebuyers using excessive leverage. That is what defines a bubble, and that is what I focused on in April 2005: Housing: Speculation is the Key.
Read on ... there is much more.

Existing Homes: Months of Supply vs. Real Prices

by CalculatedRisk

Here is a graph of existing home Months of Supply vs. quarterly Real Case-Shiller National house prices since Jan 1994.

Motnhs of Supply vs. Real Case-Shiller Prices Click on graph for larger image.

A couple of notes: The Case-Shiller data is the National Index adjusted for inflation using CPI less shelter. The graph is monthly, but the Case-Shiller national data is quarterly (so the price data is stair-stepped). I only have monthly inventory and sales data back to Oct '93. Also, I'm missing some 2000 inventory data, and I extrapolated for a few months in 2000.

From this graph, it appears real prices are flat with about 6 months of inventory - prices rising with less than 6 months - and prices falling with more than 6 months. So perhaps we could argue house prices will fall until Months of Supply declines to close to 6 months.

However this relationship between price and Months of Supply doesn't seem to fit with earlier data. I have year end inventory and sales data back to 1982, and the following graph shows year end months of supply since 1982 (and April 2008).

Housing Months of Supply Year end inventory data is usually the low point for the year (as homeowners take their houses off the market for the holidays). So the months of supply was probably higher during the spring and summer selling months.

From Q1 1987 through Q3 1989, real national prices rose almost 10% according to the Case-Shiller National Index, even though year end Months of Supply was close to 7 months (and likely higher during the summer).

So maybe prices will flatten out when Months of Supply declines to 8 months or so.

With inventory levels approaching 12 months (11.2 months in the most recent report), prices will probably continue to fall for some time.

Saturday, May 24, 2008

U.S. Vehicle Miles vs. Real Gasoline Price

by CalculatedRisk

Yesterday the Department of Transportation reported that Americans drove 11 billion fewer miles in March '08 than in March '07. I presented a graph of the moving 12 month total miles driven here.

The following graph compares the year-over-year change in the moving 12 month total vs. the real price of gasoline (source for real prices: EIA). Note: graph uses annual data for real prices prior to 1980.

U.S. Vehicle Miles vs. Real Gasoline Price Click on graph for larger image.

This is only the third time since 1970 that the YoY change in total U.S. miles driven has declined. The previous two times were following the oil shocks of 1973 and 1979 - and led to the two most severe U.S. recessions since WWII.

Note that the most recent data from the DOT is for March. According to the EIA, gasoline prices have risen 13% since then! So I'd expect U.S. miles driven to have declined further in April and May.

U.S. Vehicle Miles vs. Real Gasoline Price
Perhaps even more stunning is the real price graph for Diesel (from the EIA). Ouch.

Buffett: "long, deep" U.S. recession

by CalculatedRisk

From Spiegel Online: Investor-Legende Buffett attackiert gierige Banker (attacks greedy bankers)

Die Rezession werde "tiefer gehen und länger dauern, als viele denken".
The recession will be deeper and last longer than most people think.

And on the bankers:
"Sie brauten ein Giftgetränk und mussten es am Ende selbst trinken", sagte Buffett. "So etwas machen die Banker normalerweise ungern, sie verkaufen es lieber an andere", fügte er sarkastisch hinzu.
Loosely translated: The bankers brewed a poisoned drink, and then had to drink it themselves. Usually they prefer to sell the poison to others (said sarcastically).

Meanwhile, on Friday, Goldman Sachs forecast a "double dip" recession, with a mild pick up in the economy mid-year from the stimulus checks, followed by another slump in the economy later this year.

UPDATED: A Congressional Speculator?

by Tanta

This is an update to post below on Rep. Laura Richardson's foreclosure woes.

Gene Maddaus of the Daily Breeze kindly forwarded today's additions to the saga. There are not two, but three homes owned by Richardson in foreclosure. And yes, she appears to have cashed out her primary residence back in 2006 to fund her campaign for State Assembly. So it looks like a pattern.

* * * * * *

I have been watching the story of Representative Linda Laura [Oops! --Ed.] Richardson and her foreclosure woes for a while now, while heretofore hesitating to post on it. For one thing, the original story--a member of Congress losing her expensive second home to foreclosure--had that kind of celebrity car-crash quality to it that I'm not especially interested in for the purposes of this blog. For another thing, posting about anything even tangentially related to politics invites the kind of comments that personally bore me to tears.

All that is still true, but the story has taken such an unfortunate turn that I feel obligated to weigh in on it. Specifically, Rep. Richardson is threatening us:

Rather than shy away from voting on mortgage-related bills, Richardson said her experiences could help her craft legislation to make sure others don't experience what she did. For example, she sees a need to add steps to inform property owners before their property can be sold.

"We have to ensure that lenders and lendees have the tools with proper timing to resolve this," she said.
If Rep. Richardson is going to base legislative proposals on her own experience, then it matters to the rest of us what that experience was. So click the link below if you can stand to hear about it.

* * * * * * * * * *

The story was originally reported in the Sacramento Capitol Weekly, and picked up by the Wall Street Journal, and thence covered by a number of blogs, with the storyline being that Rep. Richardson "walked away" from her home, a second home she purchased in Sacramento after being elected to the State Assembly. The "walk away" part came from a remark made by the real estate investor who purchased the home at the foreclosure auction, not Rep. Richardson or anyone who could be expected to understand her financial situation, but that didn't stop the phrase "walk away" from headlining blog posts.

Rep. Richardson has variously claimed at different times that the house was not in foreclosure, that she had worked out a modification with the lender, and that the lender improperly foreclosed after having agreed to accept her payments. Frankly, unless and until Rep. Richardson gives her lender, Washington Mutual, permission to tell its side of the story--I'm not holding my breath on that--we're unlikely to be able to sort out this mess of claims to my satisfaction, at least. It's possible that WaMu screwed this up--that it accepted payments on a workout plan with the understanding that foreclosure was "on hold" and then sold the property at auction the next week anyway. It's possible that Richardson's version of what went on is muddled, too. Without some more hard information I'm not inclined to assume the servicer did most of the screwing up, if for no other reason that we didn't find out until late yesterday, courtesy of the L.A. Land and Foreclosure Truth blogs, that Richardson's other home--her primary residence--was also in foreclosure proceedings as recently as March of this year, a detail that as far as I can tell Richardson never disclosed in all the previous discussion of the facts surrounding the foreclosure of her second home.

What part of this I am most interested in, right now, is the question of what in the hell exactly Richardson was thinking when she bought the Sacramento home in the first place. Since the story is quite complex, let's get straight on a few details. Richardson was a Long Beach City Council member who was elected to the state legislature in November of 2006. In January of 2007 she purchased a second home in Sacramento, presumably to live in during the Assembly session. In April 2007, the U.S. Congressional Representative from Richardson's district died, and Richardson entered an expensive race for that seat, winning in a special election in August of 2007. By December 2007 the Sacramento home was in default, and it was foreclosed in early May of 2008. The consensus in the published reports seems to be that Richardson spent what money she had on her campaign, not her bills. According to the AP:
Richardson, 46, makes nearly $170,000 as a member of Congress and was paid $113,000 during the eight months she served in the state Assembly in 2007 before her election to Congress. She also received a per diem total of $20,000 from California, according to a financial disclosure form she filed with the House of Representatives clerk.
It seems to me that all this focus on what happened after she bought the Sacramento home--running for the suddenly-available Congressional seat, changing jobs, etc.--is obscuring the issue of the original transaction.

In November of 2006, Richardson already owned a home in Long Beach. As a newly-elected state representative, she would have been required to maintain her principal residence in her district, but she would also have had to make some arrangements for staying in Sacramento during Assembly sessions, given the length of the commute from L.A. County to the state capitol. She seems to have told the AP reporter that "Lawmakers are required to maintain two residences while other people don't have to," which is not exactly the way I'd have put it. Lawmakers are required to maintain one primary residence (which need not be owned) in their district. They are not required to buy a home at the capitol (of California or the U.S.); many legislators do rent. Richardson is a single woman with no children, yet she felt "required" to purchase a 3-bedroom, 1 1/2 bathroom home in what sounds like one of Sacramento's pricier neighborhoods for $535,500, with no downpayment and with $15,000 in closing cost contributions from the property seller. (The NAR median price in Sacramento in the first quarter of 2007 was $365,300.)

I have no idea what loan terms Richardson got for a 100% LTV second home purchase in January 2007, but I'm going to guess that if she got something like a 7.00% interest only loan (without additional mortgage insurance), she got a pretty darn good deal. If she got that good a deal, her monthly interest payment would have been $3123.75. Assuming taxes and insurance of 1.50% of the property value, her total payment would have been $3793.13.

The AP reports that Richardson's salary as a state representative was $113,000 in 2007, and she received $20,000 in per diem payments (which are, of course, intended to offset the additional expense of traveling to and staying in the Capitol during sessions). I assume the per diem is non-taxable, so I'll gross it up to $25,000. That gives me an annual income of $138,000 or a gross monthly income of $11,500.

The total payment on the second home, then, with my sunny assumptions about loan terms, comes to 33% of Richardson's gross income. I have no idea what the payment is for her principal residence in Long Beach. I have no idea what other debt she might have. I am ignoring her congressional race and job changes and all that because at the point she took out this mortgage, that was all in the future and Richardson didn't know that the incumbent would die suddenly and all that. I'm just trying to figure out what went through this woman's mind when she decided it was a wise financial move to spend one-third of her pre-tax income on a second home. (There's no point trying to figure out what went through the lender's mind at the time. There just isn't.)

Now, Richardson has this to say about herself:
"I'm Laura Richardson. I'm an American, I'm a single woman who had four employment changes in less than four months," Richardson told the AP. "I had to figure out just like every other American how I could restructure the obligations that I had with the income I had."
Yeah, well, I'm Tanta, I'm an American, I'm a single woman, and I say you're full of it. You need to show us what your plan for affording this home was before the job changes, girlfriend. You might also tell me why you felt you needed such an expensive second home when you had no money to put down on it or even to pay your own closing costs. As it happens, the Mercury News/AP reported that by June of 2007--five months after purchase--you had a lien filed for unpaid utility bills. You didn't budget for the lights?

But what are we going to get? We're going to get Richardson all fired up in Congress about tinkering with foreclosure notice timing, which is last I knew a question of state, not federal, law, and which has as far as I can see squat to do with why this loan failed.

Quite honestly, if WaMu did give Richardson some loan modification deal, I'd really like to know what went through the Loss Mit Department's collective and individual minds when they signed off on that. Sure, Richardson's salary went up to $170,000 when she became a member of the U.S. Congress, but what does she need a home in Sacramento for after that? Where's she going to live in Washington, DC? And, well, her principal residence was also in the process of foreclosure at the same time. I suppose I might have offered a short sale or deed-in-lieu here, but a modification? Why would anybody do that? Because she's a Congresswoman?

I'm quite sure Richardson wants to be treated like just a plain old American and not get special treatment. Well, I was kind of hard on a plain old American the other day who wrote a "hardship letter" that didn't pass muster with me. I feel obligated to tell Richardson that she sounds like a real estate speculator who bought a home she obviously couldn't afford, defaulted on it, and now wants WaMu to basically subsidize her Congressional campaign by lowering her mortgage payment or forgiving debt. And that's . . . disgusting. At the risk of sounding like Angelo.

I know some of you are thinking that maybe poor Ms. Richardson got taken advantage of by some fast-talking REALTOR who encouraged her to buy more house than she could afford. According to Pete Viles at L.A. Land,
She likes the Realtors, and they like her. She filed financial disclosure forms with the House Ethics Committee reporting the National Assn. of Realtors flew her to Las Vegas in November to help swear in the new president of the association, Realtor Dick Gaylord of Long Beach.

In suggested remarks* at the NAR gathering, also filed with the House, Richardson's script read: "I might be one of the newest members of Congress but I am not a new member of the REALTOR Party. When I needed help to win a tough primary, REALTORS stood up and backed me even though I was the underdog."

--Real estate industry professionals have given her $39,500 in campaign contributions in the current election cycle, according to Open Secrets.
No wonder she's blaming the lender.


Yes, I Can Stand to Hear About This.

Friday, May 23, 2008

MarketWatch: Bank failures to surge in coming years

by CalculatedRisk

Alistair Barr at MarketWatch provides an analysis of the coming surge in bank failures.

Only three banks have failed so far in 2008. But that number is set to surge as the credit crunch slows economic growth and hammers some lenders that grew too fast during the recent real-estate boom, experts say.

The roots of today's banking crisis grew out of the boom and bust in the real estate market. Lenders originated more and more mortgages, while other banks, particularly smaller and medium-sized institutions, ploughed money into construction and development loans.
...
At this point in the crisis, you can't stop bank failures," said Joseph Mason, associate professor of finance at Drexel University's LeBow College of Business, who has studied past financial crises.
And on C&D loans:
Small and medium-sized banks found it difficult to compete with large lenders in the national markets for mortgages and other consumer loans. So many focused on C&D loans because this type of financing relies more on local, personal connections, said Zach Gast, financial sector analyst at RiskMetrics.

As the real estate market boomed, C&D loans did too. A decade ago, bank holding companies had $60 billion of these loans. That number is now $480 billion, according to Gast, who also notes that C&D loans are almost never securitized, so they're held on banks' balance sheets.

Such rapid loan growth usually creates trouble later. Indeed, delinquencies represented 7.1% of total C&D loans at the end of the first quarter, up from 0.9% at the end of 2005, Gast said.
Barr names several banks that might fail, including IndyMac and Corus. The bank failures are coming.

DOT: Vehicle Miles Fell 4.3% in March

by CalculatedRisk

Graph of 12 month rolling total U.S. vehicle miles added:

U.S. Vehicle Miles Click on graph for larger image.

From the Department of Transportation: Eleven Billion Fewer Vehicle Miles Traveled in March 2008 Over Previous March

Americans drove less in March 2008, continuing a trend that began last November, according to estimates released today from the Federal Highway Administration.
...
The FHWA’s “Traffic Volume Trends” report, produced monthly since 1942, shows that estimated vehicle miles traveled (VMT) on all U.S. public roads for March 2008 fell 4.3 percent as compared with March 2007 travel. This is the first time estimated March travel on public roads fell since 1979. At 11 billion miles less in March 2008 than in the previous March, this is the sharpest yearly drop for any month in FHWA history.
It appears that prices are finally impacting demand in the U.S.

Vallejo files for bankruptcy

by CalculatedRisk

From the AP: Vallejo files for bankruptcy to deal with budget shortfall

The city of Vallejo has filed for bankruptcy protection ...

The San Francisco Bay area suburb of about 120,000 residents is the largest California city to declare bankruptcy.

Mayor Osby Davis says the city's attorneys filed papers seeking Chapter 9 bankruptcy protection in federal court in Sacramento on Friday.
This was expected. The question is: Is Vallejo unique, or will a number of other cities file bankruptcy?

Historical Housing Graphs: Months of Supply, Sales and Inventory

by CalculatedRisk

The first graph shows the year end months of supply since 1982 (and April 2008).

Housing Months of Supply Click on graph for larger image.

The months of supply has risen to 11.2 months, and will probably be over 12 months sometime this summer. I don't have monthly data back to the early '80s, but the months of supply will probably be close to an all time record by July.

The second graph shows annual existing home sales and year end inventory. As the NAR recently noted 2007 was the fifth highest sales year on record.

Annual Existing Home Sales and Year End Inventory Note: for 2008 I used the April sales and inventory numbers. All other numbers are annual sales, and year-end inventory.

If the red columns (inventory) rises above the blue column (sales) - something that will probably happen this summer - then the "months of supply" number will be over 12.

The third graph shows the annual sales and year end inventory since 1982 (sales since 1969), normalized by the number of owner occupied units. This graph shows that inventory is at an all time record level by this key measure.

Existing Home Sales and Inventory, Normalized by Owner Occupied UnitsThis also shows the annual variability in the turnover of existing homes, with a median of 6% of owner occupied units selling per year. Currently 6% of owner occupied units would be about 4.6 million existing home sales per year. This indicates that the turnover of existing homes - April sales were at a 4.89 million Seasonally Adjusted Annual Rate (SAAR) - is still above the historical median.

This suggests that sales of existing homes could fall further in 2008.

More on April Existing Home Sales and Inventory

by CalculatedRisk

For more, see my earlier post: April Existing Home Sales

Existing Home Sales NSA Click on graph for larger image.

The first graph is Not Seasonally Adjusted sales by month for the last few years. This shows that sales have plunged in April 2008 compared to the previous three years.

April is an important month for existing home sales, and is part of the spring selling season. The next four months - May through August - are typically the strongest selling months of the year. Existing home sales are recorded at the close of escrow, and most homebuyers want to move during the summer months.

For forecasting, probably the most important number in the existing home sales report is inventory; houses listed for sale. For April, the NAR reported inventory at 4.552 million units, an all time record high for April.

This tells us nothing about the number of distressed homes for sale (REOs, short sales). It also says nothing about homeowners waiting for a 'better market'. But the NAR inventory report does provide a general idea of the supply side of the 'supply and demand' equation.

See the earlier post for a graph of inventory.

Existing Home Inventory Seasonal Pattern The second graph shows the seasonal pattern for inventory for the last few years (based on year end inventory from the previous year).

Note: the NAR doesn't seasonally adjust inventory.

This suggests that the inventory build so far this year has been about normal, and it is reasonable to expect inventory levels to continue to increase into the summer.

My guess is existing home inventory will peak in mid-summer at around 5 million units. This will probably put the months of supply over 12 months.

BTW, the all time record high for inventory, for any month, was July 2007 at 4.561 million units. That will probably be broken in May.

April Existing Home Sales

by CalculatedRisk

Update: Graphs added.

Update2: Here is the NAR press release.

From MarketWatch: Unsold houses rise to 23-year high in April

The U.S. housing market weakened further in April, with a flood of homes coming on the market even as sales and prices declined, the National Association of Realtors reported Friday.

Resales of U.S. houses and condos dropped 1% to a seasonally adjusted annualized rate of 4.89 million from 4.94 million in March.
...
Resales have sunk 17.5% in the past year and are down 33% from the peak in 2005.
...
The inventory of unsold homes jumped 10.5% to 4.55 million, an "uncomfortably high" level, said Lawrence Yun, chief economist for the real estate trade group.

Inventories represented an 11.2 month supply at the April sales pace ...
Existing Home Sales Click on graph for larger image.

The first graph shows existing home sales, on a Seasonally Adjusted Annual Rate (SAAR) basis since 1994.

Sales in April 2008 (4.89 million SAAR) were the weakest April since 1998 (4.77 million SAAR).


Existing Home Inventory The second graph shows nationwide inventory for existing homes. According to NAR, inventory increased to 4.55 million homes for sale in April.

The typical pattern is for inventory to decline in December, and then to slowly rebound in January and February, and really start to increase in the Spring.

I'll have more on inventory later today.

Existing Home Sales Months of Supply
The third graph shows the 'months of supply' metric for the last six years.

Months of supply increased sharply to 11.2 months.

This follows the highest year end months of supply since 1982 (the all time record of 11.5 months of supply). Inventory is the story in this report.

More later (the NAR website has problems this morning).

THE VACATIONIST

Friday, May 23, 2008

HALL OF FAME OF PORK (III)


Lecherones, Huarocondo, Peru. This little town is outside Cuzco and is justly famous for its crispy-salty-juicy roast suckling pig. The guy posing next to the pork is Manuel, my excellent guide along the Ancascocha trail that extends from the Pomatales Canyon up into the Huayanay range and intersects the Inca Trail on its way to Machu Picchu. (1.28.05)

THE WEST COAST IS NICE




I'm back in NYC now after the west coast whirlwind. Had lots of fun, saw friends, ate good things. That's COULTON up there in Santa Monica, holding an ice coffee purchased at the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf where we saw Al Pacino. I went to Coffee Beans all over town but never saw Pacino again. That's the power of Coulton. Coulton played a great show with Paul & Storm at the House of Blues. Thanks for letting us party like (soft) rock stars in the green room. I am sorry I drank your third-to-last beer. Stein and I played tennis in Griffith Park. The bacon is at the Chateau Marmont and it is peppery and it is good (if maybe not Hall of Fame of Pork good). My old and newlywedded friend Chris Browne lives in LA. That's him with Chaffin and Jeana in the parking lot outside the restaurant where we celebrated the Mrs. Janice Browne's birthday, though she is not visible here. Nobody is really visible come to think of it. The guy with the pizza is my friend Joel Baecker who operates an excellent mobile wood-oven pizza operation up around Petaluma. More on that later but you can check it/him out HERE.

Monday, May 19, 2008

HALL OF FAME OF PORK (II)


Savory smoked-pork strudel. Restaurant Pretzhof. Tulve, Alto Adige, Italy. 2/2/08.

Friday, May 16, 2008

HALL OF FAME OF PORK (I)


My friend Mr. MARTIN wrote a great guest post over at EatingAsia about the babi guling from Ibu Oka in Ubud, Bali. I truly have no idea what any of those words mean and it is possible he just made them up. But it all looks and sounds delicious, makes me hungry, and inspired me to post some images and notes on Great Pork Things I Have Eaten. First in the series: the almost pornographically juicy rosso tonkatsu from Hirata Bokujyou, Tokyo. (More on Tokyo eats HERE and HERE)

HODGMAN DECLARES CANADA "PERFECT"


Hodgman seems to be in Canada and is saying NICE THINGS about this mysterious giant, the "Brooklyn of the Americas." While I can't agree with his assessment, there are some pretty & good things about our northerly neighbor. I was up there last August working on stories and had a great time. Above, hiking at altitude in the beautiful Adamants mountain range, British Columbia. Canadian Mountain Holidays runs these heli-hiking trips. They are the best. This is a good way to be healthy, ride on helicopters and eat cookies.

I also wrote about the restaurant scene in Quebec City, which is celebrating its 400th year and has much to recommend it. I didn't get to mention the greasy 2am poutine. I will mention it now: It is fucking good.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Mahatma Mensch


Randomly: Mani Bhavan, Gandhi's residence, Bombay. 11.1.07

SFO - LAX


Left: San Francisco sidewalk, yesterday; Right: West Hollywood street sign, today.

STUCK IN MY HEAD


Eight days later & I am still saying "playa del coco." Make it stop please.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

HOW TO EAT A MORNING BUN II


Morning. Tartine. San Francisco. 5/14/08.

HOW TO EAT A MORNING BUN


This is the morning bun. This is the morning bun I ate this morning. It's from Tartine on Guerrero. It is a thing of complex beauty. Orange-sugary, at once sticky and gooey and crumbly, with near-caramelized edges and a heart of golden butter. There are two schools of thought about how to eat it. I am the dean of both schools. One: eat the edges first, pulling away each gooey-buttery outer ring at a time, moving around and inward, leaving the nearly-self–contained cylindrical center for last. This is the prized shot-glass of buttery nectar. Two: Eat the shot-glass-center first. Then move outward in any manner you like. How you eat this depends on your theories about delaying pleasure or your feelings that day about the likelihood of a bus veering off 18th St, smashing through the window and killing you where you stand (you will have at eaten the best part first). This is glass half-full, versus half-empty stuff, except that the glass is full of butter. I once ran into one of Tartine's owner at some food-industry party in New York and cornered them to talk about my feelings about the morning bun. This is akin to (I imagine) going to a swingers club and running into someone from the PTA who wants to talk about your kids. One other tip: get there early before they are gone. One final tip: Never eat two of these in a morning.

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

SOME GOOD THINGS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO


I've been eating a lot of pizza the last couple days but need to save that for an upcoming story. The parking and the microclimate crap still drive me crazy. But there are some good arguments for this city. Like donuts and sunsets and junky old 7-Up signs on corner delis and Hog Island oysters. A few others: My pal Bootsy, aka Matt Harput, and his rare, vintage and dead-stock Adidas, pristine Beetle and general life-advice. Go to HARPUTS.

Making coffee the expensive, halogen-powered, bamboo-paddled way at BLUE BOTTLE.

Solid sushi advice at SEBO.

COSTA RICAN BIRD MANIA

video
I mentioned the monkeys, but it was the birds that were really going ape shit. This doesn't really do justice to the aggressive aural overload of standing under this tree thick with the crazy birds. It was a wild, textured, LOUD sound. Set against the orange-purple sunset, it was how I imagine it'd feel to take acid and visit a pet store.

Monday, May 12, 2008

HELLO NEW (MOSTLY NON-IMAGINARY) PEOPLE


Big thanks to Blogger.com for naming this one of their BLOGS OF NOTE. Above: the big party for new Blogs of Note inductees. (Actually that's Paris, about a month ago. Seated dinner for two hundred at the Opera House. I wore a velvet dinner jacket. I have no idea what I was doing there but the champagne was good and plentiful.)

FROM THE FILES: WHICH PASTA LANE?


Three random signs from Bombay. The no pet litter sign is part of a series about street cleanliness. Also forbidden: washing your car in public. No spitting is from the train station. I still can't figure out what the illustration is meant to represent. And 3rd Pasta Lane? Whatever it is, I love it. (India. 10/07)

MARTIAN SUNSET


Sunset on Playa del Coco. Once you start saying "Playa del Coco" it is very easy to keep saying it all day.

WHICH ONE OF THESE THINGS IS NOT LIKE THE OTHER ONES?


In search of a fourth. On a beach somewhere. 5/9/08.

Friday, May 09, 2008

TOMORROW'S HISTORY TODAY: THE PRESENT


Not sure who this guy is. But I like him. There were howler monkeys napping in the trees by the beach, their white balls hanging low like fuzzy dice from a rearview mirror. I didn't have the zoom lens (or heart) to capture them. Four Seasons Playa Papagayo, Costa Rica.

TRAINS OF THOUGHT


Sensitive. Amtrak, Union Station. Denver, CO.


Sensible. London Underground.

Thursday, May 08, 2008

SUNNY, BLURRY, BLEARY

Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica. Landed last night, woke up to this. Bad picture taken from hotel w/ "Photo Booth" on the laptop, then emailed, slowly.

Wednesday, May 07, 2008

IN AN AIRPORT THINKING OF DONUTS


Flying to Costa Rica today. In the Houston (pronounced like the restaurant) airport. SPEAKING OF DONUTS: The above is from Abu Dhabi this summer. Emerati are just like us.

They drink RC Cola in Dubai.

They have pork shops for non-muslims. Pork which is "ALWAYS FRESH, ALWAYS NEAR YOU"

MENU CLIFFHANGERS


Japantown, San Francisco 5/6/08

Tuesday, May 06, 2008

FRIENDS ON TV DEPT.


My old pal SHIHAB RATTANSI was until recently an anchor on CNN International. He was the one with the posh voice and nearly crushing air of seriousness & dignity. (Not to be confused with Richard Quest, that absurd meth-taking muppet that Mr. Martin and I have long been interested in/horrified by.) Over many years and across many continents, I've made a stupid habit of taking (or trying to take) pictures of myself watching Shihab on hotel room TVs. Shihab just moved to a new job working for Al Jazeera America, which somehow I don't think I'll get around to watching quite so often. So in tribute to his long service to wandering new-viewers, I have put together a little photo album.

Shihab fans and people who like pictures of people pointing at television sets, please point yourself to:
WATCHING SHIHAB: A GLOBAL GALLERY OF GRAVITAS

DRINK, FUCK, FORGET


Hello Nice People —
Now a little back-story to this little blog. In January of 07 I found myself rather suddenly wife-less. After a period of sorrow and bourbon-soaked hibernation, I did what any injured, untethered, horny middlelatethirtysomething male newly unleashed in the world would do: I went a little crazy, traveled everywhere, stayed awake for months and months and got by on fun and distraction where I could find them. Then I did what any still injured but oddly triumphant, somewhat recovered and definitely self-involved writer would do: I wrote about it all in GQ Magazine. The headline and the pictures are a little sexed up. But this really is a story about loss and survival and an honest attempt to embrace the strangeness and pleasures of life's unasked-for second act.

The story's out in the April edition of GQ and finally up at the magazine's website HERE OR: PDF addicts may prefer to read it THIS WAY

Undisclosed Location w/ HODGMAN


Hodgman rightly takes me to task for not updating this thing. Here we discuss the situation silently in an UNDISCLOSED LOCATION. All I can say is: those are not his real shoes. AND: I WILL POST MORE FREQUENTLY. OFTEN IN ALL CAPS.

Monday, April 28, 2008

Sorry for the slow posting. More updates soon.


(Maui, 9/07)

(Delhi Airport, 10/07. I love this sign. This is a mere "inconvineance" in India, imagine what a real problem looks like)

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

before/after: italian dolomites edition



In & around Corvara and San Cassiano over the Brenner Pass from the Austrian border.
Beautiful mountains, exhilarating air, insane snowy roads, so much pork.
Next stop…Liverpool?

Sunday, February 03, 2008

Fecalnomics (flashback 12/07)

Huon Valley, southern Tasmania:


Tamar Valley, northern Tasmania:

Sunday: to the Dolomites



Saturday, February 02, 2008

On the road again


Home in NYC for a great month. Now it's somehow February & I'm back in motion. To properly re-discombobulate myself I stayed up all night Thurs, slept a few hours on Fri and took an early morning Sat flight to London. Tonight I'm at Yotel, the newish "pod" hotel in Gatwick. Japanese-style capsule hotel in a grim mall area of a British airport. Surprisingly good shower. Brought to you by the folks from the not-very-good kaiten zushi chain, Yo. Early flight tomorrow to Innsbruck, where I'll get a car, drive to the Italian Dolomites & eat speck as soon as possible.

The morning after


Survived 07. Pretty strange year for me. Some terrible—but so much good. More on all of that later. Happy new year, imaginary readers.

Sunday, December 23, 2007

me too


Confused (Tasmanian weather report)
Headed home today from Dubai. Between London, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Sydney and Tasmania it's been a good month—and I have no idea where I am. I'll post more soon but for now a few random images.


Sandboarding in the desert.


Racing Aston Martins.


Hobart, TAS.


Binalong Bay, near the Bay of Fires, TAS.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

SUN / MON / TUE


Tuesday: Dubai



Monday: London.
(Above: Eccles cake with lancashire cheese at St. John.)



Sunday: Wake in Louisville KY — find my courtyard and trashcans on the front cover of the Sunday NYT real estate section. Fly to NYC, shower, dump trash in said cans. Night: Fly to London.
Below: My brother Josh's head (left) containing the brain that invented his diabolical Thanksgiving tradition — Krispy Kreme pie; my head (right) containing the mouth that ate too much of it.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

NYC (weekend)


Exterior: Charlton Street.


Interior: King Street. Vegetable lasagna w/ thinly sliced grilled zucchini. Not bad. Too tomato-y. Nothing two pounds of slow-cooked pork shoulder couldn't have fixed.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Maasai


Life of the Maasai warrior:
Pros = Colorful robes; women do the wood-gathering and hut-building; spears.
Cons = Circumcised at 15; diet of cow's blood and milk.

Pavement Life

"Overbreathed" — grumpy V.S. Naipaul re: Bombay air. I am missing it I guess, even while I'm relieved to be home. Or not so much missing it as thinking about it a lot. Or belatedly processing it. Or something deep.




More Naipaul: "The main roads there are wide, wet-black and clean in the middle from traffic, earth-coloured at the edges where pavement life flows over on to the road, as it does even on a relaxed Sunday morning, before the true heat and glare, and before the traffic builds up and the hot air turns gritty from the brown smoke of the double decker busses; already a feeling of the crowd, of busy slender legs, of an immense human stirring behind the tattered commercial facades one sees and in the back streets doesn't see, people coming out into the open, seeking space." (India: A Wounded Civilization, 1977).

Dreamers with empty hands/ They sigh for exotic lands/ Its Autumn in New York / It's good to live it again.


It's the nicest season in the best city in the world. Woke up in Africa, took a crap in London, watched sixteen bad movies in coach, was at Pegu by 10pm & at Ssam bar for pork belly buns and head-cheese terrine round midnight. New York is oddly, wonderfully, weirdly quiet after the insanity of Bombay. Silent and serene. Happy to be home.

Thursday, November 08, 2007

Zanzibar - almost


My scowl and I landed in Zanzibar today but didn't stay long. Zanzibar is not—like say Pittsburgh—a place you expect to just spend a layover in the airport. But my flight to Dar es Salaam from the bush did stop here and, while I've really wanted to see Zanzibar I've been away from home for too long & just couldn't extend the trip any longer. I've had romantic notions about Zanzibar ever since I fact-checked a piece about the island some awful number of years ago — so I got to fly back to Dar thinking maudlin and common thoughts about travel anticipation versus travel reality and the horrible passing of time. Ah, well, I'll have to go back. In the meantime, I'm putting my head (which is made of a kind of pink, chewy candy) down for some rest before flying back early tomorrow. See you in America, imaginary readers.

Good Luck/Bad Luck: Tanzania


I've been doing fancy safari things in AFRICA for the past week. And liking it. Tired now — more pictures soon.
For now, two views of the topi, a big elegant antelope. Above: Standing proud in the endless plain. Below: Another topi, not so lucky, caught by two female lions and beginning to be taken apart by their very cute (and totally deadly) young cubs.

Morning in the Serengeti


View from tent at about 5:30am.



Some time in the middle of the night I woke up and recorded these crazy sounds right outside my tent (I had the camera handy with the vague idea that if some menacing thing came to kill me in the night I could, at the very least, take a flash picture of it.) These were probably the same hyenas who snuck up and ate a bowl of nuts while we had dinner nearby.

Thursday, November 01, 2007

So long, Bombay






Leaving India later this morning. Sad to go. Been an amazing time. I'll post more pictures but now a little sleep. Next up: TANZANIA.

Short film about trying to cross the street.



Press the little arrow to play. Apologies to Wes Anderson.

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

He's not just the owner…


Happy halloween all.

No idea.


Any guesses?

Yes, and that too.

Monday, October 29, 2007

Talk about mudflaps, Bombay's got 'em

Sunday, October 28, 2007

Today


Today I ate fried things from a street stall / watched kids play cricket on the street / saw a goat walking in a market and puppies eating trash by the side of a highway / went to a beach where kids rode in mini electric cars and an old woman pulled dozens of chicken feet from a bag full of chicken feet and fed them to wild dogs who love chicken feet / sunned myself next to the pool at the Taj / saw the body of a dead man on a stretcher covered with flowers carried past me down the street in a Hindu funeral procession headed to the crematorium (the dead man wore a white hat and an open-mouthed look of wonder) / stepped over an open sewer / was approached by a man asking me to be an extra in a Bollywood movie — his business card said: "Bollystars Casting (Specially Western People)" / played Xbox at a friend's apartment / looked away as an elderly couple urinated at the edge of a beautiful park / watched two men lathered up and shaved by barbers on the side of the street / saw a monkey / admired the gated palatial homes of Malabar Hill and the giant Art Deco banged-up jalopies of apartment buildings along Marine Drive / drank a can of iced coffee from a gas station convenience store / passed a sign that said "Special Bus Lane for Best Buses Only" and another that asked "Are You Ready For the Global Gujarati?" / ate squid koliwada and kerala prawns and butter nan and spongy neer dosa and drank Kingfisher beer.

That was today & I got a late start. And it was a Sunday.

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Not the least intimidating vehicle in the world.


A few feet from the nicest hotel in Bombay. Unrelated: an ATM ate my bank card today and I found myself shouting at a bank official who asked for a xerox of my passport "I did not bring a photocopier to India!" Sometimes being right doesn't stop you from being an idiot.

Anthologized


The anthology BEST FOOD WRITING 2007 is out and in bookstores now. They re-printed my story about eating in Shanghai from Bon Appetit. That was nice of them. (The image on the right has nothing to do with the book or the original story. It's just a KFC tribute joint I saw in Shanghai and liked.)

Found: In Translation


A Japanese magazine (COURRIER JAPON) translated my New York Times T Travel magazine story about eating everything in Tokyo into JAPANESE. Cool. I am much, much funnier in Japanese. And skinny.

Thursday, October 25, 2007

BOM/STO

Still in Bombay but stuck inside writing a story about Sweden, so I'm putting up two images from my week in Stockholm this July.

On a ferry. I like how the windows look like pages of a book.


Biff rydberg. At tiny Bakfickan bar at the Opera House. Steak, potatoes, onions, an egg yolk—why/how so good?